Changes

One of the most delightful aspects of keeping a blog is the comments I receive from strangers. I think they happen upon my writing when they are homesick for El Salvador - completely understandable. But I love the emails they send me about when and why they were in this country! Always a pleasant surprise...

I thought that the most profound change we would face when we arrived in El Salvador would be the initial shock of moving out of the United States. I'm now fascinated with the way we have changed physically and emotionally in the eight months we have been here. For instance, my style of dressing has changed. First of all, it's hot here and you just wear less. Second, I have now lost 23 pounds and nothing fits anymore! It's either wear Maggie's clothes ( because hers no longer fit her either) or shop. Clothes here are youthful. I went to the hardware store yesterday in a tank top with my bra straps showing because it's just the way women dress here. What shocked me when I arrived is now the norm. (Big bonus - too hot for pantyhose!)

Emotionally we are different as well. We are far less fearful of embarassment. There's no longer a doubt that we will embarass ourselves everytime the interaction involves Spanish. It's just funnier now and far less painful. For instance, I bought Maggie a birthday cake at the San Martin Bakery. By the time I got home, the phone was ringing. I had left my credit card at the bakery. I understood everything the woman was telling me in Spanish "Is this Susan Dunlap? This is the San Martin Bakery. You left your credit card here." The panic set in when I tried to respond. All I could think was "C'est moi." High school French comes back when I least expect it. So instead I handed the phone to Maggie. She did a beautiful job (in Spanish) of being me, and we went straight back to pick up the card. I was all ready to show identification and act out in some sort of charades, "You have my credit card." Instead they all smiled the minute I walked in the door and handed me back my card. Guess we all stick out in this country more than we know. Maggie says how can you miss two tall female gringos in a Salvadoran bakery?

I'll close with a photo - not of some place we went this weekend but of some place where we wish we had been. I think there's no prettier place on earth than under this coconut tree by the Pacific Ocean. Hope to be there again soon! Susan

Election Day

Today is Sunday, March 12. It is Election Day in El Salvador. We have been advised to stay close to home today, just in case. James is going out later to the fairgrounds with friends so he can observe the election process. Here's what I've learned. Every mayor in every town runs for election at the same time, making for a lively campaign all over the country. But when voting day comes, you vote for the party and not for the candidate. Specifically, you vote for the flag of the party.

My students gave me a hard time on Friday for wearing a red sweater to school. They wondered if I was making a political statement in support of the FMLN, the Communist party in El Salvador. This area is pro-ARENA, which is akin to the Republican party inthe States. I can almost sing the ARENA theme song because we've heard it so much during the campaign. Besides having to stay home (i.e. no beach today), another noticeable difference is that no alcohol is sold in this country from Friday night at midnight until sometime on Monday. El Salvador is very proud of the political process here. It has been an interesting time to be in this country.

Last Sunday, I took Mags and Will to the 45th birthday party of the Peace Corps. We went to a town called Suchitoto (which I mispronounced in class - my version sounds like a Japanese restaurant). There's supposed to be an incredible lake there, which we never saw. We were in the remains of a very old church for a guitar concert and lots of speeches. The photo is of the Dunlap and Fawcett kids in front of the church bell tower. It was a beautiful part of the country, and I'd like to go back when we have more time. We went to a French restaurant and hotel for desert. I was amazed they let us in wearing Peace Corps t-shirts and covered in dust.

The country roads here are a challenge to navigate, especially in our old Volvo. I always worry that I'll hit a farm animal. I think a chicken wouldn't be so bad, but the pigs and cows and donkeys by the side of the road worry me. I drove to Suchitoto because James and a fellow teacher went to the stadium to see a soccer game. The funniest part was when a vendor tried to sell James a beer. He called James "chelito" which roughly translates as "little white boy." My brother said in a way that's a compliment!

I'm nursing a sunburn today from my carelessness at the pool. I've got lots of papers to grade, and the quarter ends on Friday. Time is flying by. Maggie will be 14 next Sunday. She's out so often with friends that we don't see her much anymore. But hopefully turning 14 in Central America will be memorable for her. She wants a cellphone, which I think we're going to have to give in and buy for her.

Note to Theresa - what would I do without a reminders from you to update the blog? Thanks again! Susan